February is Black History Month and that means we must take the time to reflect on some of the amazing contributions made by Black Americans. Across music, literature, and civil rights, Black Americans have made undeniable impacts in their respective fields. The jazz renaissance will always be attributed to Black musicians in Harlem like Duke Ellington and Billie Holiday. The civil rights era that brought civil rights and liberties to all Americans will always be associated with giants like Martin Luther King Jr and Malcom X. In that vein, it’s important to recognize the contributions that Black Americans have made in fashion. Here’s a look into some of the most well known Black fashion designers of the last two centuries.

Left: Image of Zelda Wynn Valdes with one of her costumes at the Dance Theater of Harlem. 

Courtesy Dance Theatre of Harlem Archive. Right: Image of Joyce Bryant, 1953. Courtesy Jim Byers

1. Zelda Wynn Valdes

Zelda Wynn Valdes is one of the most influential Black designers of the 20th century. She graduated from high school and apprenticed at her uncle’s tailor shop in the 1940’s and then worked at a high end fashion store where she perfected her tailoring. She then went on to open up the first Black owned dress shop in Harlem. Despite an immense amount of racism, Zelda became a popular costume designer in the early 1950’s. She teamed up with a breakout nightclub star, Joyce Bryant (also referred to as the “Black Marilyn Monroe), to create stunning dresses for her to wear on stage. Zelda went on to be hired as the principal costume designer for the Dance Theater of Harlem and personally designed gowns for celebrities like Dorothy Dandrigde, Ell Fitzergerald and Eartha Kitt. 

Designed by Anne Cole Lowe | Photo of Jacqueline Kennedy in her wedding gown in the December 1966 issue of Ebony Magazine

2. Anne Lowe 

Ms. Lowe was a prominent fashion designer in the 1950’s. Her claim to fame was designing the wedding gown of Jackie Kennedy. At the time she did not receive any credit for doing so. It is one of the most iconic American dresses of all time and there’s a story behind it: when Lowe came to the front door of Jackie’s parent’s home to dress the wedding party, she was told to enter at that back door. But she refused. Ms. Lowe said “If I have to enter by the back door, the bride and bridesmaids will not be dressed for the wedding.” She was admitted through the front door. This is a great example of the difficulties that brilliant Black fashion designers endured on their rise to greatness.

Photo Courtesy of Ayana Ife’s Website

3. Ayana Ife

An overview of Black fashion designers would fall short without commenting on Black Muslim artists from the last few decades. Ayana Ife is someone who falls in that category. In the summer of 2017, Ayana made headlines as the first Muslim female contestant of Project Runway to make it to New York Fashion Week. Her designs were seen as feminine, but sporty and youthful. She tapped into the history of the women from the Nation of Islam and the community of Imam W.D. Muhammad and other Black Sunni Muslim communities. Ayana continues to create modest fashion today in Philadelphia focusing on athletic wear for Muslim women. 

Photograph: Image Press Agency/NurPhoto/Rex/Shutterstock

4. Halima Aden

Although she’s not a designer, Kenyan born and Minnesota raised model, Halima Aden, has had a huge influence in recent Muslim fashion history. She first rose to fame in 2016 after she wore a burkini and hijab in the Miss Minnesota USA pageant. From there she went on to sign a contract with IMG Model s– the same agency that signed the Hadid sisters, Heidi Klum and Ashley Graham. Halima has been unapologetic with her desire to promote modest fashion and although she has struggled to balance fame and modesty, she will forever be recognized as someone who has proudly worn her faith on her sleeve.